Looking for a new Spanish home for their family, the Hoggs discovered an old ruin next to the Rio Genal. Ian Spratt explains how they transformed a crumbling shell into an exotic temple to self-sufficient living.

Finca Hornillo can be found tucked into an oxbow on the Rio Genal. To the south of this quaint villa is the majestic Mount Crestallina, a rugged limestone mass that dominates the skyline. A few kilometres north is the pretty little mountain village of Gaucin, which was once a haven for brandy and tobacco smugglers who moved their contraband through the surrounding hills. Now, however, a growing community of artists and musicians from across Europe populate its narrow winding streets. 

Turning off the main road that links the coastal town of Manilva with Gaucin, I follow a narrow stoney track that runs parallel with the river through dense cork forests and citrus orchards. The griffon vultures that nest on Mount Crestallina wheel overhead, effortlessly riding the strong thermals, and a small deer, startled by the large four-wheeled intruder, darts across my path, disappearing into a copse of sugarcane.

Continuing on, I keep an eye out for wild boar that still inhabit this stunning area of Andalucía. None are visible, but I am greeted by two bundles of brown fur that burst out of the bushes and run either side of the car. Not wild boar, but Oz and Winnie, the Hogg family’s Staffordshire Bull Terriers. A short drive through their orchard of orange and lemon trees and I arrive at Finca Hornillo.  

The dogs have taken a shortcut and beaten me back to the house, welcoming me with wet tongues and muddy paws as I alight from the car. Penny Hogg greets me and the aroma of freshly ground coffee envelops us as we enter the large open plan kitchen.

Four years ago Finca Hornillo was a complete ruin. No more than a roofless, crumbling rectangular shell. As we sit on the sunny terrace sipping our coffees, Penny explains. “We moved to Spain eight years ago. Initially we lived in Gaucin because of our three children. The eldest was 13 at the time and my husband Kit and I both thought that it was important that we all became part of the community and learnt Spanish.” Penny continues, “We did buy another Finca but it didn’t work out and we eventually found this place.” Penny’s husband Kit runs a tree surgery and palm tree cleaning business from Gaucin, which obliges him to travel extensively throughout Andalucía. Because of his work commitments, the renovation project was handled by a close family friend, Tony Martinez, who lives in Gaucin.

Penny explains, “We didn’t have much of a budget to renovate the Finca, so we kept the original walls and renovated the rest of the house using traditional construction methods. We managed to find old railway sleepers and sourced more recycled wood from a yard in Gaucin.” She chuckles, “When we ran out of money we used some ’green’ wood from the forest for the roof beams, but as it dried out it warped, which adds a bit of character to the house.”

Penny and Kit have created a totally self-sufficient way of living. Mains electricity was considered but would have meant having pylons erected across the valley. To retain the natural beauty of the environment, a generator has been installed in one of the outhouses and solar panels put on the roof. Water for washing and general use is pumped from the river and there is a spring nearby for drinking water. Waste is dealt with using a self-regulating septic tank. Modern technology is in evidence, however. Satellite dishes on the roof supply TV and broadband – a must with teenagers in the house.

The renovations took two years to complete and a strong Moorish influence is evident throughout the house. The floors at ground level are covered with local terracotta tiles and upstairs natural pine has been laid. The doors were all made by friends who live close by and many of the paintings, including the blue archway at the bottom of the stairs, were created by local artist Mary Clare Soa.

Despite the strong Moorish influence many of the interesting and unusual items of furniture and accessories come from many different parts of the world. “We’ve collected lots of the pieces on our travels,” explains Penny. “For example, the candlesticks on the mantelpiece were made by an artist in Venezuela. Some of the furniture comes from Rajasthan and Afghanistan and the dark wood carved headboard in the guest bedroom was originally made in Malaysia, but we found it in a junk sale locally.” She laughs and continues, “The pigs on the mantelpiece are well travelled. They are from Zimbabwe, via Herefordshire. My mum found them in a shop there and gave them to us as a present.”

Penny and Kit have strong connections with nearby Morocco, where many of the soft furnishings and drapes come from. They have recently bought a property there, in Chefchaouen. Once the renovations on their Moroccan investment are complete, they intend to offer ‘away from it all’ holidays, similar to those currently available in the two Mongolian tents (yurts) in their orchard, where guests visit for bird watching, meditation and walking holidays.

As Penny walks through the orchard collecting oranges in a large straw basket, she talks about the history of the area and the advantages of living in such a beautiful location. “I can’t really fault it here,” she says. “But when we first visited Finca Hornillo we found a large bread oven at the back of the house. We presumed the house was called Hornillo (little oven) because of our find. It was only after we had lived here through a very long, hot summer that we realised the bread oven probably had nothing to do with it.”