| Mountain Madness |
|
It seemed like a good idea at the time – tackling the Pyrenees by pedal power. But as the day of the big adventure approaches, the regrets begin … The potential pitfalls include continuous climbs (and fast descents) of many hundreds of feet and the possibility of extreme weather – possible in one form or another throughout the year in the Pyrenees. The burning question is, of course, will I make it to Coll D’Ares, the Pyrenean watershed? Several days’ relaxation in the gorgeous city of Girona prove an excellent physical and psychological preparation, even if the first day’s cycling of around 35 miles to Olot was always going to be relatively easy, tracing the route of a former railway along steadily climbing gradients into the Pyrenean foothills. These vias verdes, or greenways, are a national scheme sponsored by several railway bodies and local government; rather than letting defunct railways fall into disrepair, a suitable cycling surface has been laid, giving the opportunity for some idyllic traffic-free rides. Once I find the start, unsigned on the north side of town, it is almost all plain cycling. I simply follow the wide, crushed stone surface, at first leading through woodland and arable land before the gradual climb to Olot begins, and towering verdant hills hem me in on all sides. Only once is it necessary to ask directions, from a group of elderly Spanish cyclists out on a Sunday jaunt. After an extended climb I find myself approaching Olot along an upland plateau to top off a spectacular day. I beat a weary but happy track through the small but lovely central plaza to the very basic (but very cheap) Pensión Namar, to sample a three-course meal including the local speciality of pigs’ trotters Catalan style. My balcony view affords a lovely panorama over some of the area’s extinct volcanoes and its famed lush beech forests that prosper in the volcanic soils. The next day it is nice to be back on easy-rolling Tarmac again, leaving Olot, as my narrow touring tyres had only just coped with the previous crushed sandstone surface. I pick up food and drinks at the spectacular village of Castellfolit de la Roca, arrayed around a sheer cliff that looks over beautifully tended smallholdings full of lush vegetables. The church tower is swathed in the Catalan flag, though disappointingly the sausage museum I am seeking appears to have either closed or gone out of business.  Turning north up the Camporiol valley I get my first taste of Pyrenean mountain climbing proper, as up until now I have only been in the prepirineo, as the Spanish call the foothills. I had come across main roads intermittently but now all traffic drops away and an undramatic but absolutely unrelenting gradient takes over before I reach my first proper col, or mountain pass, to drop down into the sleepy village of Oix. After snacking and a brief siesta, I try to find a very minor road or track (my map doesn’t seem to make a clear distinction between the two) via the hamlet of St Miquel de Pera. In the end I resort to asking the post lady on her rounds. It turns out to be the hardest but most beautifully remote section of the route, starting promisingly as Tarmac which then gradually disintegrates to become a rubble-strewn track, once again climbing remorselessly to St Miquel de Pera before emerging on a modern road not even marked on the map. This area around the Col del Salomo resembles more of an upland plateau than the craggy Pyrenean peaks I’ve been expecting. A fast, long descent brings me to the picture-postcard village of Beget, decried in my Rough Guide as being almost too twee. I find it virtually deserted apart from the owners of my accommodation and the odd workman, giving even greater effect to the lovely 12th-century church and tiny stone bridges at its heart. Apparently it’s very popular in season, not least because it’s on one of the Pyrenees’ most popular long-distance walking routes, the GR11. By the next morning’s cycling I am getting into the rhythm – keep up a pace you are comfortable with for several hours’ climbing and don’t contemplate the mountain ahead. This gives me time to observe the flora and fauna; I see birds of prey soaring above the dense woodland, several mammals I’ve never seen before as well countless bird species (making a mental note to bring a small pair of binoculars and a guide to wildlife next time). The road to the tiny settlement of Rocabruna has the most astoundingly serpentine hairpins I’ve yet encountered but is worth it for the great views to its castle, perched on a hilltop about a mile away. Then it is virtually downhill all the way to the town of Mollo, where I take a track shortcut to join the C151 road, the main route in the area over the border to France – even here, still very lightly trafficked. Mist gradually rolls in as I climb. The fog-shrouded, unmanned border post at the Col D’Ares is a slight anti-climax to the literal high point of my trip, especially as I have been expecting astounding views. After waiting a couple of hours with not a chink of clear sky in sight, it is time to turn back and spend three days retracing my outward route. FACTFILE MAPS & GUIDES I used a 1:50,000 Mapa Excursionista produced by the Istitut Cartogràfic de Catalunya. A larger scale 1:40,000 or even 1:25,000 map of the region wouldn’t hurt. I used information from Rough Guide to the Pyrenees and internet searches to plan the trip. WHEN TO GO Late May to September is best (though peak season in Easter and late July and August will mean many more tourists). Be prepared for often heavy thunderstorms, especially in midsummer. Outside this period passes may be blocked by snow. ACCOMMODATION It’s vital to book in advance; in season places may be booked up and out of season they may be closed and it may be many, many miles of deserted terrain between accommodation. THE BIKE I used a folding tourer from Airnimal, manufactured both to quick fold for short journeys and to pack down to suitcase size for longer journeys (how it accompanied me to Girona all the way from London Waterloo). Pannier racks, front and rear from Airnimal. For use on vias verdes and alpine tracks you need at least a touring bike with reasonably chunky touring tyres to soak up uneven surfaces. OTHER SUGGESTED RIDES While this route is really for fit and experienced cyclists there are several options in the area that would provide easier yet equally fantastic riding. Why not base yourself in Olot and cycle the 20km east to the outstanding medieval town of Besalú. There’s also plenty of riding around the area’s extinct volcanoes. Riding from a base means you don’t have to carry all your gear with you as I did, adding 20kg or so in weight. For the easiest traffic-free riding try the Vias Verde linking Girona to the Catalan coast at Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Eventually these excellent railtrails will form a continuous link all the way from the Costa Brava via Girona and Olot to Ripoll in the heart of the Pyrenees. |
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|