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When I first visited Spain in the 1970s, getting there was part of the adventure. In an attempt to replicate this sense of wonder in these days of cheap flights and convenient airports, when I arrive at my destination airport I tend not to make a beeline for my apartment or hotel. Instead, I prefer to take a slightly slower and more circuitous route that allows me to settle into the tempo of the area I am visiting. With a light lunch out of the way, followed by a stroll around the narrow streets of the old town to burn off some of the calories and maybe a visit to the museum for a little bit of culture, the rest of the drive is quite pleasant. Tarifa makes a great base for exploring the southern end of the Costa de la Luz, either by foot if an energetic rambler, or by car if you wish to travel further afield. I opt for the latter, as I am only able to stay for three or four days. To the north-west of the town, the sands of Tarifa stretch almost unbroken for about 12km, ending in the drifting dunes that constantly threaten to cover the road out to the old coastal gun battery on Punta Paloma. However, a better beach, which has even higher drifting dunes and where kite-surfers are banned, can be found about 8km further up the coast at Bolonia. To get there, though, you need to follow the N-340 for just under 15km, then cross the saddle between the sierras that shield the hamlet on a twisty road with views over the Strait of Gibraltar to Morocco. At the end of this road lies ruins of Baelo Claudia, the best-preserved Roman town on the Iberian peninsula. First found in literature dating from 18AD, this town was the major centre for the production of salted fish and garum paste for the Roman Empire, due to the ease of catching tuna which migrates through the Strait twice each year, in spring and summer. A visit to this archaeological site, a fair bit of which still has to be excavated, is free to EC passport holders throughout the year except on Mondays, though get there early on a Sunday as closing time is 2pm. A couple of little restaurants overlooking the beach just outside the perimeter look like a tempting lunch stop, but if you backtrack to the main hamlet, two wooden chalet-style restaurants slightly elevated above the beach offer simple but appetising fare. Naturally, fish and shellfish dishes plus salads predominate, and presentation is straightforward. It is amazing how tasty and filling a couple of plates of grilled fresh sardines and grilled green peppers can be, and a glass of gazpacho makes the perfect starter.  There are a couple of small apartment complexes in the hamlet, though no hotel, and if you are lucky you might just find a reasonable room available outside the main season. If you do, the two bars at the north end of what passes as the main street offer basic meals in a friendly, if somewhat lively, atmosphere. For something just a little more upmarket, head for the village school – you can’t miss it – and watch out for the two fish restaurants tucked away on your left. They are excellent … but don’t expect the staff to speak English. Further up the coast lies the old tuna fishing port of Zahara de los Atunes, but to get there involves a 30km circle via the N340, as the military barracks at Punta Camarinal is in the way. Zahara has a handful of hotels and is busy with Spanish holidaymakers in summer, plus its restaurants appeal to residents of a very large modern residential apartment complex further down the coast, so it is more expensive than Bolonia or Tarifa. If feeling really adventurous, follow the coast road back in the direction of Bolonia and you will come to the community of Atlanterra, where a mix of traditional and modern villas perch on the hillside over a white beach of crushed seashells. Park at the end of the road, climb the track to the lighthouse at Cabo de Gracia, admire the view, then follow the narrow path down to the hidden beach below. On a sunny May or September weekday, you will have the place almost to yourself, with only the sound of the seabirds rising above the crash of the waves as you look out to Morocco on the horizon. Sheer bliss. |
When travelling to Tarifa, make the journey there part of the adventure.| < Prev | Next > |
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