The bogavante we cook in Spain is a European lobster, a close cousin to its American counterpart. I like to use two lobsters weighing about 1lb each, though a single, larger one can be used.

Serves four

2 small ñora peppers
Two 1lb live lobsters
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, half roughly chopped, half finely chopped
1 carrot, cut crosswise into 10 or so pieces
2lb heads and bones of monkfish or other white fish
1 celery rib, cut crosswise into thirds
8 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves stripped and stems and leaves reserved separately
8 peppercorns
7 cups water
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 squid (about 2 oz), cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch squares
1/4 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch squares
2 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
6 whole almonds, toasted
1 tsp chopped fresh, flat-leaf parsley
1/2 tsp sweet pimentón
2 pinches saffron threads
1 1/2 cups short or medium grain rice

Soak the ñoras in a small bowl of warm water for an hour. Drain, and remove and discard the stem and seeds. Chop the flesh and set aside.

With a very sharp knife, split the lobsters in half lengthwise, cutting along the belly and catching any juice that falls. Season generously with salt and pepper. In a stockpot or medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot, heat 2 tbsp of oil over a medium heat. Add the lobsters and cook for two minutes, meat-side down, then for another two minutes shell-side down. Transfer to a platter.

In the same pot, add the roughly chopped onion and the carrot and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown and release their juices, about five minutes. Add the fish heads and bones, celery, parsley stems, peppercorns, and two pinches of salt, and cover with the water. Cut away the lobster appendages and the head. Transfer the body and large claws to the platter and add the rest to the stock. Bring to the boil; reduce the heat, and cook, partly covered, for 30 minutes. Strain the stock, discarding the solids.

While the stock is simmering, begin making the sofrito. In a caldero, tall cazuela, medium Dutch oven, or another medium heavy pot, heat 2 tbsp of oil over a medium-low heat. Cook the pieces of ñora peppers and the garlic until the garlic is brown, about five minutes, watching the garlic carefully so it does not burn.

Transfer to a platter. Add the remaining onion and slowly cook until soft and translucent, five to 10 minutes. Add the squid and bell pepper and cook for another five minutes. Add the tomatoes and two pinches of salt, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the tomato has darkened to a deeper shade of red and the sofrito is pasty, 10 to 15 minutes.

Next, prepare the picada by pounding in a mortar the ñoras, garlic, almonds and parsley with 2 tbsp of stock until you have a fine paste. Or whir them in a food processor or blender.

Cut the lobster bodies into half-moon shaped pieces, keeping the meat attached to the shell if possible. Pick out any tiny shards of shell and discard. Gently crack the large claws so they remain intact but the meat is very accessible.

When the sofrito is ready, sprinkle in the pimentón and saffron, letting the flavours meld for a few seconds while stirring constantly. Add 6 1/2 cups of the stock and spoon in the picada. Increase the heat and when the liquid is at a boil, add the rice and the pieces of lobster along with any juices from the platter. Cook, uncovered, over a medium-high heat for 10 minutes, gently stirring occasionally. Check for salt, adjusting the seasoning as needed. Reduce the heat to low and cook for an additional eight minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al punto, with just a bite to it.

Remove the caldoso rice from the heat, cover with a lid and bring to the table. Lift the lid, allowing all to smell the aromas floating out of the pot, and ladle into bowls immediately.