For six days each year, the streets of Seville sway to the sounds of flamenco and the rhythm of hooves

The streets are awash with an array of vibrant colours, the air alive with anticipation. At every corner horses’ prancing hooves and girls’ flamenco frills flash by in a sangria-induced haze and it is impossible not to become embroiled in this energetic and dazzling spectacle. This is Spain at its best.

Seville’s Feria de Abril began in 1847 as an agricultural fair, but has since developed into one long party that takes place every year. This year the festival lasts from 28 April to 3 May.

Celebrated on an open site just out of the city centre, half-a-million paper lanterns cast their seductive shadows across a temporary city of more than one thousand brightly-striped casetas (tents). The fair officially opens when the Mayor turns on the thousands of lights that decorate the portada (gateway). From there, a ripple of lights spread out and illuminate

Daily parades, funfairs and bullfights take place and locals, both young and old, ride their majestic Andalucían horses through the streets. Men in traditional traje corto (short suits) sit straight-backed and powerful holding reigns loosely in their left hand, while smoking arrogantly with their right. Girls perch precariously on the back in traditional traje de gitano (gypsy outfits), their frills and flowers cascading in voluminous waves. If you dream of a Spain filled with guitarra music and stern-faced women dancing flamenco deep from their heart, then Seville at this time of year is the place to visit. It’s a feast for your eyes, but also for your soul.

Many casetas are private, reserved only for family members and guests, so unless you are lucky enough to have a coveted invite, you will have to enjoy the ‘open’ casetas. These can sometimes be packed full if there is a well-known musician on stage, but this only adds to the atmosphere. Throughout the week thousands of people cram in for dancing, singing and tapas – the atmosphere is electric. You will however find that as a direct result of this accommodation is notoriously tricky to find and requires a fair amount of forward-thinking and planning. Prices also vary enormously, so if you are open to experience a different side of Seville then you might consider renting better-priced accommodation in one of the surrounding villages.

Despite the feria being primarily about drinking, dancing and eating, you will want to take note of the full program of events before indulging in too much sherry. You certainly won’t want to miss the parades that happen during the daytime, featuring some of Seville’s aristocracy on horseback and seated in flamboyant carriages, followed by the bullfights that take place late afternoon. Although this sport is abhorred by many of Spain’s youngsters, it still has a strong following, and the feria bullfights are said to be some of the best of the season, attracting highly revered matadors. And if you dare you can head into the amusement park, Calle del Infierno (Hell Street). An exuberant den of circus events, rides and entertainment, it has something for all the family including plenty of mini-rides for small children.

Read the full article in our April 2009 edition.

Words and pictures Alice Griffin

Seville Feria photos courtesy of Turespaña (www.tourspain.es)