Too often tarred with the same brush as its brash Costa del Sol neighbours, Málaga is shaking the touristy image and aiming to show off its cultural heritage

Sitting on the orange-tree-lined patio of a chic gallery café, leafing through a hefty cultural agenda, it comes as no surprise to learn of Málaga’s candidature for the title of European City of Culture 2016. The news may come as something of a surprise to the masses who think of Málaga as nothing more than a glorified air terminal – the gateway to the Costa del Sol.

In fact this beautiful city is steeped in Spanish culture and presents a very different face to the rest of the international holiday zone that flanks it. Other than budget airline weekenders, few tourists head for the city from the airport’s arrivals hall, but the loss is all theirs. Never mind the hundreds of authentic local bars and restaurants, the elegant shopping streets and palm-lined avenues, this is a city that oozes culture wherever you look.

Its flagship is the Picasso Museum, which is where I’m taking a break, eating recognisably northern European café culture food (bruschetta, risotto, seared scallops) and finishing off with a decidedly local combination of sweet Málaga wine and a rich, earthy café solo.
This world-class gallery only opened in 2003 but has been drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors a year – most of them Spanish. The collection of more than 200 of Picasso’s works is unique in that it comprises very personal pieces owned by the artist’s family; Every item has been donated or is on loan from his daughter-in-law Christine Ruiz Picasso, and her son Bernard.

The building that houses this remarkable hoard is a beautiful 16th Century urban mansion, the Palacio de los Condes de Buenavista. But while the exterior has been lovingly restored, the interior is a perfect mix of sympathetic tradition and fantastic, modern gallery spaces so big you could put on a decent football match inside.

The personal nature of the collection stirs emotions in me I wouldn’t have thought possible. Great artist he undoubtedly was, but I’ve always considered Picasso first and foremost a shrewd businessman.

Here, though, are beautiful intimate portraits of his muses, and especially his children. You can marvel at his revolutionary changes of style, but for me, the simple portrait of his four-year-old son in a white hat was a highlight. That, and the achingly lovely ceramics he seemingly turned out faster than a pottery factory.

Picasso was born in Málaga, and, though he left the city while still in short trousers, he attributed much of his artistic style to the influences of southern Spain. He also suggested frequently that although there were museums dedicated to his work in Paris, Barcelona and Antibes (enough for any man, you might think), the lack of a fourth in the city of his birth left the jigsaw incomplete.

Having finally woken up to the fact that its most famous son is big box office, Málaga now boasts three Picasso-related museums. The Picasso birthplace museum is set in an elegant townhouse and displays some small but beautiful works by the great man as well as videos relating to his life. It’s part of the Picasso foundation, which has another gallery a few doors away showing temporary exhibitions.

Read the full article in our October 2008 edition.

Words by Tony Jeffries.