 The Illas Cies, a beautiful archipelago of granite islands adrift in the Atlantic near Galicia, allow visitors to discover some of the world’s rarest creatures
A weather-beaten figure hauling a mesh bag emerged onto the jetty. He opened it so Ricardo, our guide, could inspect the contents. I had a look too, and saw a tumbled heap of grey items like the trunks of tiny elephants, but with stony beak-like tips.
“Percebes” explained Ricardo “They are selling for about 80 euros a kilo right now. These will end up in an expensive restaurant in Madrid. I think you call them Goose Barnacles in English? They grow where the strongest Atlantic waves break over the rocks, on the far side of the island. It's a dangerous job collecting them.”
The jetty where we had landed lay on the sheltered side of the Illa do Faro in the Illas Cies, an archipelago of rugged granite outcrops that defy the waves to provide a breakwater for the huge natural harbour of the Ria de Vigo in the south of Galicia. Swept by the tides and winds, the west side of the islands faces the surf of the Atlantic with dramatic cliffs and strangely shaped rock formations, while on the sheltered eastern side lie bays and beaches of pure white sand.
Plants and animals have adapted themselves to the islands, forming a unique environment, both on land and in the surrounding sea where beds of kelp shelter a great diversity of marine life. We had been diving on the sheltered side of the island, photographing shoals of fish, a moray eel and a large octopus, while the percebeiro had been out on the exposed side gathering his harvest.
The unique and beautiful environment of the Illas Cies is carefully protected. In 2002 the islands were included in the Parque National de Islas Atlanticas de Galicia. Managing the park involves balancing conflicting interests: fishing is hugely important to the Galician economy, but preserving biodiversity must come first in the National Park. So, explained Ricardo, a few local fishermen are allowed to collect the goose barnacles, octopus and other seafood by traditional methods and for a limited number of days in the year. Human beings have used the sea's rich resources sustainably here since the Stone Age, but modern fishing methods that can wipe out populations and damage the seabed are banned.
There's another balance to be struck too. The islands' exceptional beauty attracts many visitors and in the summer ferries run from nearby Cangas, Vigo and Baiona. Some walk the trails to the clifftop views while others settle for the day on Rodas Beach, named as the world's most beautiful beach by the Guardian in 2007. Too many visitors could damage the peace and beauty of the islands, so only 2200 people are allowed to land on the island each day.
We had set off early enough to be included in that number, and wanted to explore the island further. A walking trail climbs up through woods of the native Pyrenean Oak and emerges to dramatic views of the nearby Illa de San Martino. A small lighthouse sits at the foot of the cliffs and the path leads up to the larger one at the island's highest point, with a zigzag path winding steeply between the two. From the large lighthouse the view was breathtaking, revealing the steep western side of the island with waves curling and boiling against it. To the east the Galician coast lay on the horizon, with a view of the great port of Vigo backed by cloud-capped mountains.
Read the full article in our February 2008 issue: click here to subscribe. Text by Jenny Fowler. Images by Charles Sterling. |
