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Art attack
Image Whether its food, sculpture, sharks or even life itself, San Sebastian is a city that can’t help striving for perfection

If you think that a beach holiday in Spain is all about sun, sea and sangria, think again. Destined to defy your expectations, a trip to San Sebastián is as breathtaking as a brisk walk along the city’s famous, shell-like La Concha bay. Merging the old and new, the traditional and the trailblazing are seamlessly woven together in what feels like Spain’s best-kept secret. You’ll probably want to keep in that way once you’ve visited. With its 3km of unspoilt sand stretching along the Bay of Biscay, it’s little wonder that during the Belle Époque, this was the holiday destination of choice for European aristocracy.

Situated on Spain’s northern coast, in the heart of Basque country, San Sebastián (or Donostia in the Basque language) lies just 20km from the French border, yet you won’t find much Gallic culture creeping in. The nearest major Spanish city is Bilbao, which is about an hour’s drive away should you find time to make it to the world-famous silver-plated Guggenheim museum. Not that you’ll be stuck for things to do in San Sebastián, though thankfully the pace is more genteel here than in Bilbao. Poet Gabriel Celaya once described it as “an open city” and the ease at which you can explore on foot is a major plus.


The main reason to come here is the food. A gastronome’s delight, San Sebastián famously has more Michelin stars per square metre than anywhere else in the world and, together with Paris, it’s the only city in the world boasting three restaurants with the maximum distinction of three Michelin stars. Of these, I’d have to recommend Restaurant Arzak (www.arzak.info). Featuring the Donostiarra cuisine of Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena, it’s probably the most luxurious family-run restaurant you’ll ever encounter. For years, Arzak was considered the finest chef in Spain, and to this day he continues his aim to “renew and modernise Basque cuisine without losing its traditional base.”

 

Read the full article in our February 2008 issue: click here to subscribe. 

 
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