Visit Pontevedra and discover history in a city of cool colonnades, fresh produce and lively squares.

The squares and granite-paved alleyways of the old city of Pontevedra basked in the September afternoon sun. Cafe tables were almost deserted as we settled down for coffee and relaxed from our day's exploration, as the shadows gradually lengthened in the Praza de Curros Enriquez. Suddenly there was a trundle of wheels and a double pushchair bearing two immaculately turned out toddlers passed us by, their mother heading into the square. From another direction came a group of young teenagers, eating ice creams and chattering excitedly. Within minutes the Praza filled with animated conversation. Family groups of two or more generations settled at tables, waitresses took orders, mothers met up and small children played around the statue and the water fountain. By five thirty the whole town had come to life, its inhabitants emerging from their homes to chat, eat, drink, see and be seen.

This old section of Pontevedra could have been designed purely as the perfect meeting place for friends and families, but of course it's much more than that. Its reason for being goes deep into prehistory; the surrounding hills contain ancient rock carvings or petroglyphs at whose meaning we can only guess. The city is on the west Galician coast of Spain, not far north of Portugal, and is on one of the four sheltered rias, or river valleys, that make up the Rias Baixas area. A Roman road bridged the River Lerez here, and gave the city its name, which means Old Bridge.

The sheltered harbour of the Ria was the foundation of the city's fortunes as trade and shipbuilding flourished. Columbus' ship Santa Maria was built here, and indeed he may himself have been born in the city. Families grew wealthy and commissioned fine houses, many with the family coat of arms carved on the front. Elegant squares were laid out and arched colonnades protected citizens from sun and rain alike.

A change of fortune in the eighteenth century must have seemed disastrous at the time, but had the effect of preserving the beauty of Pontevedra to the present day. The River Lerez became increasingly silty and trade shifted southwards to the Ria of Vigo, still an important fishing port. This halted development in the old city, so we can still see it today much as it was three hundred years ago, built on a human scale and perfect to explore on foot with a view of architectural delight around every corner. It's thriving now, popular with visitors from the hotter parts of Spain who escape here in summer, and with French visitors who appreciate the gastronomic tradition based on superb fresh ingredients, especially seafood.

We had started the day in the square stone-built municipal market, where every kind of fish and crustacean from local waters is piled on the slab, surrounded by crushed ice. Around the sides of the hall, stalls offer fresh meat and the excellent locally made hams and sausages produced to traditional recipes, herb flavoured or hot and spicy. Another stall has local cheese of many shapes and sizes, including the uniquely Galician, sensuously shaped Tetilla. Upstairs is a paradise for lovers of fruit and vegetables. Small green peppers nestle in a box, ready to be made into pimientos de padron. We had enjoyed this tapas dish a few days previously, the peppers simply roasted in olive oil with a little salt, sweet and mild until you get to the one in ten that is very hot and gives your taste buds a real jolt. Green beans, artichokes, tomatoes, courgettes, fresh figs and sweet chestnuts all jostle for position: Galicia has more rainfall than areas further south and produces excellent ingredients that underpin the high quality of the food in local restaurants.

Leaving the market we wandered around the old town, exploring the narrow streets that join the squares. The Rua Real is home to some very traditional businesses. There's an ironmonger with every type of fitting or handle you could possibly need, all stored in small drawers. A draper has thread of every colour, a vast range of buttons, stockings stored in cardboard boxes ... it's the kind of shop long disappeared from the British high street. Another shop is overflowing with straw bags and baskets, a wholefood shop has a tempting display of dried fruits and nuts, handwritten price labels advertise cakes and bread in a bakery. One narrow shop holds two dressmakers hard at work with sewing machines, another is home to two skilled workers making bespoke soft furnishings. Old ceramic jars emblazoned with Latin chemical names decorate a modern pharmacy.

In search of history we approached the museum, but it was shut until 4:30 so we visited some other historic buildings. The Igrexa de San Fransisco was a place of cool and quiet, next to the town's largest square, the Praza de Ferreria, once an area of ironworkers but now another relaxed social space. Sixteenth century seafarers contributed to the building of the Basilica de Santa Maria, which has an impressive carved facade combining sacred figures with important people of the day, including Columbus.

In Pontevedra you are never far from a cafe to refuel with drinks, tapas and coffee. We were glad to stop and while away the quiet midday hours, relaxing and enjoying the view. More wandering and exploration brought us to our favourite cafe for another stop, then as the city woke up around us we finally made it to the excellent museum. Housed in three interlinked historic buildings, this contains a wealth of information about the history and pre-history of the area and is free to enter if you have your passport with you.

Pontevedra has so much to offer: outside the old town is the modern area, less picturesque but with good hypermarkets and an excellent motorway giving access to the airport at Santiago. All around, the Galician countryside is green and open. Small roads lead to traditional farms and stone-built villages where many houses have their own ancient horreo or granary, where food was stored for the winter. Good beaches such as Playa Lagos lie either side of the ria, and on the north bank the village of Combarro gives a clue to its great age in the small size of its doors, hinting that it dates from time in the past when people were smaller.

Galicia does not attract the sun-seeking crowds in the same way as Mediterranean Spain, but this leaves it as an area with a strong local culture that is all the more interesting and rewarding to visit. The local language, Galego, is widely spoken – but people are welcoming and helpful whatever language you speak The southern Rias Baixas area where Pontevedra lies is warmer and more sheltered than the areas further north, and with its natural beauty, historical interest and superb cuisine is surely set to become a more popular destination for visitor from abroad, but one which is in no danger of losing its unique identity.


Where to Stay

Parador de Pontevedra (0034) 952 868 771
Luxury hotel set in an old palace, within the old city.
Euro145 for a double in high season, but check www.parador.es as there are several special offers.
Easy to book by phone as receptionist speaks English.

Casa Quireza (0034) 628 510 609
Beautifully restored eighteenth century farmhouse in village about 25 minutes drive from the city.
Euro55 for a double room. Website www.telefonica.net/web2/casaquireza/
email This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
Run by Chris and Margaret Gait who cook excellent food with local ingredients and share their expert knowledge of the local area.

Hotel HHB Pontevedra Confort (0034) 658 791 542
New hotel a short walk from the old town offering excellent value.
Doubles Euro50 high season. Website www.hotelpontevedra.es/hotel.htm
email This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Where to eat

La Casa de las Cinco Puertas
Avenida de Santa Maria 8
(0034) 986 851 948 www.5puertas.com
Traditional Galician food with innovative touches and superb quality

Casa Filgueira
Plaza Lena
(0034) 986 858 815
Good for tapas to share or try the menu of the day. Again combines Galician tradition with modern touches.

El Puerto
Avenida Las Corbaceiras 20
(0034) 986 851 277
Fish and octopus straight from the port. Good tortilla and tarta de queso. Great value at Euro10 or 12 for a meal.

Getting there

We travelled from Portsmouth to Bilbao with P & O ferries and enjoyed the drive through Cantabria and Asturias.
P&O Ferries 08705 980 333 www.poferries.com

Ryanair flies from Stansted to Santiago de Compostela, which is about an hour's drive from Pontevedra.
0871 246 0000 www.ryanair.com

Words by Jenny Fowler.

Images by Charles Sterling.