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October's wine recommendations from our experts.... |
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Pricey with John Radford
2004 El Puntido, Viñedos de Páganos Price £23.05 Stockist: Gerrard Seel, 01925 819695, www.gerrardseel.co.uk I was lucky enough to visit the winery at El Puntido in 2003, just as its second vintage was maturing in the casks, and it was impressive. It has been created by Marcos Eguren, whose empire includes Sierra Cantabria and Señorio de San Vicente in Rioja, and a Vino de la Tierra bodega in Castilla y León. The Egurens have been involved in wine for a very long time: another branch of the family runs Bodegas Heredad Ugarte in Laguardia, about 5 km away from the village of Páganos. The winery is an interesting mix of traditional and modern, with small ‘tinas’ (oak vats) among the stainless steel tanks, and Marcos’s idea was to make a local style of wine from vineyards surrounding the bodega, in the Basque style. The wine is all-Tempranillo, with 18 months in new French oak to bring out the brightest fruit and give it the most savoury ‘cloak’, with four months ‘on the lees’ before the wine is racked off into clean barrels, to get every last vestige of flavour from the grape skins. Subtle, perfumed but mineral nose which hides a big tannic punch on the palate but with massive locked-in fruit. The 2004 is drinking splendidly and (a word to the wise) I’ve just had a sample of the 2005, and it’s even better. |
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Spanish food has always been influenced by its trade with the many countries that surround the Mediterranean Sea
The Mediterranean region is shared by many countries that may be physically and culturally different and yet show similarities, not least in terms of their food. They enjoy an abundance of produce, ripened under sunny skies in the fertile soils that surround the sea.
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Tuck into modern tapas for an experience that’s fresh, fun and full of flavour
Small eating is becoming a big deal. No longer do we have to sit down to a three-course meal whenever we eat out. Instead, more and more restaurants are offering a menu of ‘small plates’, from which we can mix and match as we please.
Little bites of food amuse, stimulate and excite the palate. They give both the cook and the diner an opportunity to experiment with a variety of different ingredients, and there is always something to suit everyone’s taste - perfect for people who can never make up their mind!
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Spain’s food culture is a heady mixture of historical influences, from Arabia to America
The history and religion of Spain are visible on the plate. What we eat often says much about who we are and in no country is this more obvious than in Spain. Ingredients, cooking methods, and many of Spain’s most famous recipes all have an easy-to-trace and fascinating past.
The Moors invaded Spain in AD 711, and stayed for nearly 800 years. The Moorish influence is still evident today. From the Moors came new crops, including sugar, spinach, aubergines and mint, and new culinary methods such as cooking in sealed clay pots and the use of wood burning ovens. The meat skewer and kebabs arrived, and frying with olive oil and preserving in vinegar (escabeche) were both Arab practices, the latter eagerly adopted by the locals for preserving surplus fish. The spices brought by the Moors included cinnamon, cumin and nutmeg and the magnificent golden saffron. They enjoyed sour-and-sweet (agridulce) mixtures and anise bread. |
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London’s Manor Garden allotments may have been demolished in favour of the Olympics, but their legacy lives on in the Mediterranean food of Moro restaurant. |
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