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October's wine recommendations from our experts.... |
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Wine Reviews
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Pricey with John Radford
2004 El Puntido, Viñedos de Páganos Price £23.05 Stockist: Gerrard Seel, 01925 819695, www.gerrardseel.co.uk I was lucky enough to visit the winery at El Puntido in 2003, just as its second vintage was maturing in the casks, and it was impressive. It has been created by Marcos Eguren, whose empire includes Sierra Cantabria and Señorio de San Vicente in Rioja, and a Vino de la Tierra bodega in Castilla y León. The Egurens have been involved in wine for a very long time: another branch of the family runs Bodegas Heredad Ugarte in Laguardia, about 5 km away from the village of Páganos. The winery is an interesting mix of traditional and modern, with small ‘tinas’ (oak vats) among the stainless steel tanks, and Marcos’s idea was to make a local style of wine from vineyards surrounding the bodega, in the Basque style. The wine is all-Tempranillo, with 18 months in new French oak to bring out the brightest fruit and give it the most savoury ‘cloak’, with four months ‘on the lees’ before the wine is racked off into clean barrels, to get every last vestige of flavour from the grape skins. Subtle, perfumed but mineral nose which hides a big tannic punch on the palate but with massive locked-in fruit. The 2004 is drinking splendidly and (a word to the wise) I’ve just had a sample of the 2005, and it’s even better. |
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Spanish food has always been influenced by its trade with the many countries that surround the Mediterranean Sea
The Mediterranean region is shared by many countries that may be physically and culturally different and yet show similarities, not least in terms of their food. They enjoy an abundance of produce, ripened under sunny skies in the fertile soils that surround the sea.
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Tuck into modern tapas for an experience that’s fresh, fun and full of flavour
Small eating is becoming a big deal. No longer do we have to sit down to a three-course meal whenever we eat out. Instead, more and more restaurants are offering a menu of ‘small plates’, from which we can mix and match as we please.
Little bites of food amuse, stimulate and excite the palate. They give both the cook and the diner an opportunity to experiment with a variety of different ingredients, and there is always something to suit everyone’s taste - perfect for people who can never make up their mind!
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Spain’s food culture is a heady mixture of historical influences, from Arabia to America
The history and religion of Spain are visible on the plate. What we eat often says much about who we are and in no country is this more obvious than in Spain. Ingredients, cooking methods, and many of Spain’s most famous recipes all have an easy-to-trace and fascinating past.
The Moors invaded Spain in AD 711, and stayed for nearly 800 years. The Moorish influence is still evident today. From the Moors came new crops, including sugar, spinach, aubergines and mint, and new culinary methods such as cooking in sealed clay pots and the use of wood burning ovens. The meat skewer and kebabs arrived, and frying with olive oil and preserving in vinegar (escabeche) were both Arab practices, the latter eagerly adopted by the locals for preserving surplus fish. The spices brought by the Moors included cinnamon, cumin and nutmeg and the magnificent golden saffron. They enjoyed sour-and-sweet (agridulce) mixtures and anise bread. |
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London’s Manor Garden allotments may have been demolished in favour of the Olympics, but their legacy lives on in the Mediterranean food of Moro restaurant. |
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Traditional Spanish fayre meets Asian refinement in these exciting and tasty recipes from the kitchens of the Ó restaurant.
At the heart of these recipes is a fusion between Asian and European flavours where simplicity meets sophistication. Flavour and presentation combine to create wonderful recipes with the simple elegance of Asian cooking and the straightforward rusticity of Spanish fare. |
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Keep it simple with these straightforward, delicious recipes from northern and central Spain.
Cooking fantastic Spanish food doesn’t need to be fiddly or tricky. The best traditions of the country’s food were created and are upheld in finca kitchens and simple hospederias, where fresh ingredients and straightforward preparation bring out the best in each dish. This month we bring you a feast of marvellous flavours from around northern and central Spain, dishes that are not only delicious but are wonderfully simple to prepare. |
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Eggs are a perennial favourite for suppers in Spanish households, and can be used in a huge variety of ways, from the simple frittata to enriching a complex main dish or a delicate custard. Before battery farms became ubiquitous, eggs provided a vital source of income for poorer families, who may have rarely had the chance to eat the eggs themselves as all their produce went straight to market. Thankfully eggs are cheap and plentiful nowadays, even the organic, free-range kind that have the best flavour.Buying eggs in Spain. |
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Oven-cooked sea bream
1 sea bream, about 2.25 lbs/1 Kg, prepared for cooking Salt and pepper 2 slices of lemon 3 cloves of garlic thinly sliced 4 tbsp breadcrumbs 0.5 tbsp chopped parsley 2 cups/125 ml white wine 4 potatoes, cut into slices 100 ml olive oil
Wash the fish and pat it dry. Rub in the salt and pepper inside and out. Place the fish in a baking dish and make four incisions on top with a knife. Halve the lemon slices and place them in the cuts. Arrange the garlic around them. Mix the breadcrumbs and parsley and sprinkle over the fish. Pour on the white wine and arrange slices of potato around the fish. Pour the olive oil over the fish and the potatoes. Cook for about 25 minutes at 355°F/180°C in a preheated oven. Check to make sure it is properly cooked.
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Codorníu Cocktails
Ingredients a large chunk of piel de sapo or honeydew melon 10 mint leaves a dash of sugar syrup 100ml Codorníu Reserva Cava
 Muddle the chunks of melon to a purée. Add mint leaves to melon purée without crushing the leaves. Pour the Cava into the mix, stirring gently so as not to kill the fizz. Single strain into a flute and serve. |
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2 Mandarins 10ml Red Vermouth 100ml Codorniu Reserva Rosado Vintage Brut
Method Squeeze the mandarins and pour the juice into a mixing glass. Add the Red Vermouth. Pour in the Codorniu Reserva Rosado and stir gently with a bar spoon. Pour in to a glass flute. Take a slice of mandarin skin and twist a few drops of oil over the glass and stir.
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