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Saints, legends and a strange sweet concoction – Avila is a city full of surprises.
In Central Spain, not too far from Madrid, lies a medieval walled city, with history galore, and tales of miracles and mysticism. Its name is Avila, and it sits 1,117m above sea level, in the autonomous region of Castilla y León, making it the highest capital city in Spain. It is built on the summit of a rocky hill and is surrounded by the brown, arid, treeless land that makes up many parts of central Spain. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see . On our journey there, taking one of the many cercania trains that run daily from Madrid, we spent our time watching the amazing birds, including a flock of vultures, flying about the Sierra de Gredos mountains that enclose the city. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the history of Avila stretches back to 700BC and the Vettons, peoples of Celtic origins who found the area, with its defensive mountains and nearby river, a perfect place to make camp. But its true origins are said to stretch back even further than that. According to mythology, the site was founded by Alcideo, the son of Hercules and Abyla, who named the city after his mother. However, it was the arrival of the Romans in 3BC which saw the city take on a more strategic role, with the building of the first city wall turning Avila into an important defensive enclave and developing the basis of the current city layout.
The walls that greet visitors now date from the beginning of the 12th century and tradition has it that their construction, on the remains of the old Roman wall, was supervised by Raimundo de Baroña, the son-in-law of Alfonso VI. Nine centuries on, his work is still impressive. Las Murallas, as they are known, stretch 2.5km around the old city, have 82 towers and nine puertas (gates) as well as three smaller openings. Perfectly preserved, they contain many elements of the Mudejar style so dominant in the Arabic-influenced architecture of the time.
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| Dear Travel Clinic,
| I’d love to whisk my girlfriend away on a romantic trip this year, but I just don’t have that much money to spend. I was thinking that I could save enough for us to go in September, but I’m not sure where to go. She loves art and cultural activities, so I was thinking a weekend city break might be a good choice. Can you help me find a holiday for us both that won’t break the bank? | Carl Barton, Brighton |
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Those searching for a summer celebration without the bull head beyond Pamplona, to the beautiful countryside of Navarra.
Fiesta and Navarra – two words synonymous with San Fermin, that week of booze and bravado which brings Pamplona to the attention of the wider world every July. Personally, I’m no fan of spending 20 minutes waiting to be served in a heaving bar, and certainly not of having to bed down in a park because the city’s hotels are full. More particularly, I can’t get excited about trying to beat my personal best time for the mile while being pursued by more than a ton of mean and sweaty beef on the hoof threatening to launch me, backside first, into orbit. So let the Hemingway fans, the young bucks and the plain stupid have their fun. I wanted to see a different Navarra – and different fiestas. The province may be just 100 miles from north to south and half that from east to west but it is home to an astonishing diversity of landscapes. This much I knew as I picked up my hire car at Noáin airport one September morning and headed towards the Pyrenees and the French border. The rural nature of what locals still call the Kingdom of Navarra is immediately apparent. More than half of the 600,000 population lives in or around Pamplona, which leaves an awful lot of unspoilt countryside.
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Even when the weather turns stormy there is plenty to recommend Fisterra, on the Galician coast, to the first-time visitor looking for a very different taste of Spain.
Standing on the windy headland on an unseasonably stormy midsummer day, it is easy to understand why the Romans christened this place finis terrae, or the end of the Earth. Known these days by the Galician name Fisterra, though possibly more familiar to the reader by its Castilian name Finisterre, this rocky peninsula on the northwest coast of Spain is one of the most westerly points of the European mainland. Indeed until the advent of modern mapping it was not realised that Portugal’s Cabo da Roca is actually fractionally further west. The town of Fisterra nestles on the leeward side of the southerly running promontory, which terminates just below an imposing lighthouse, the beam of which has been the saviour to countless mariners passing along this capricious coast over the last couple of centuries. In the past, the town’s natural harbour was safe haven to a large Atlantic fishing fleet, and even today it is still a working port with a bustling fish market and a good trade in crab and lobster, though fish quotas have seen many of the larger boats moving off to foreign waters in search of bigger catches.
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Vincent McCord wants to reward his employees with a team-building activity break in Spain. Can we find him an adventure to suit?
Dear Travel Clinic,
My small company has just had a very successful year, and I’d like to reward my employees with a fun holiday in Spain. It seems like a great opportunity for some team-building, so I was thinking that an activity break might be a good choice. Could you recommend any holidays designed for groups of adults? There would be about twelve of us travelling, all in reasonably good health.
Vincent McCord |
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Discover the life of the ‘Flamenco Beatle’ on a unique tourist trail in deepest Andalucía. It’s a warm spring day in the town of San Fernando, Cádiz, and flowers are being laid at a striking mausoleum of grey marble in a tidy cemetery. These floral tributes have been appearing for the last 15 years, ever since flamenco’s most creative artist finally lost his battle against cancer and drugs.
By midday tourists from all over the world will have arrived to admire his pantheon, which lies at the heart of the Ruta de Camarón. They visit this town, whose history was shaped by the Spanish fleet, to learn about the life of a gypsy whose iconic image is as recognisable as the Galácticos of Real Madrid. Visitors are invited to see the bed where Camarón slept as a child before leaving this island to conquer Madrid, Paris and New York with his incredible voice. They can also admire the restored family forge where the 12-year-old singer pounded iron, and even inspect a collection of his shoes. But the trail won’t show you the cell where Camarón would spend a disturbed weekend after threatening a policeman with a knife.
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The area around Valencia gives the visitor a rare glimpse into the world of the Borgia popes and hilltop castles Valencia requires no introduction. Like an overconfident elder son, the city rules over Spain’s east coast with a swagger, casting a supercilious gaze over its younger rivals. Recently host to the 32nd America’s Cup, and home to Europe’s largest cultural and leisure centre – the City of the Arts and Sciences – it is an easy equal to Barcelona. And like Barcelona, it presides over a country within a country; Valencian is a language in its own right and marks a fierce independence of spirit and attitude. La Costera, known as the Orange Blossom Coast, is only 60 km south-west of Valencia and forms part of a verdant plain that lies between Sierra de Enguera to the west, Benicassim to the north and del Almirante (needs checking) to the south. It is watered by the Rio d’Albaida (from a Moorish word meaning ‘white’) – and true to its name, the area glows with a pale, luminous beauty.
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The island of Ibiza has an abundance of tranquil corners for the visitor to explore – if you know where to look. Bob Morrison shares his secret route through the hidden valleys of the Central Sierras.
Eivissa, or Ibiza if you prefer, is a magical island. This summer it will be twenty years since my first visit and I still love the place – even though it has been developed quite a bit since then and in the nineties gained a reputation as a destination for party animals. Just head away from Sant Antoni de Portmany (San Antonio) towards the north of the island and you will find tranquillity in abundance.
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BOYCOTTING award ceremonies is usually the preserve of prima donna film stars on Oscars’ night – not 11-year-old boys. So it caused quite a stir when young Ramon failed to turn up to collect his trophy at the annual tortilla competition in the Priorat village of Ulldemolins.
The gastronomic contest to create the best truita amb suc (a Catalan version of the tortilla or omelette with beans or spinach) is a hotly contested affair that attracts dozens of entries. While relatives scurried off to find the errant youngster, the local radio DJ hosting the presentations did his best to entertain the large crowd gathered in the southern Catalan village. When the embarrassed-looking boy eventually shuffled out into the sunshine to receive his prize from the mayoress, he sheepishly admitted that his absence owed more to the lure of TV than any youthful protest. |
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Anyone who knows Spain will know that Spanish women are generally very well turned-out; they take great pride in their appearance, boasting perfectly coiffured hair and matching accessories.
Well, in Seville it’s even more so. Every year, women here don their flamenco ensemble, consisting of dress, shoes, shawl, bag, fan, comb, earrings and necklace, all carefully colour-coordinated, to parade at their local feria. This outfit, as well as those put together for weddings, christenings, first communions and other social events, is endlessly discussed and debated with friends; the evening paseo (stroll) along the city’s main shopping streets of Sierpes and Tetuan is used as a serious review of outfits being considered, including shoes and jewellery. |
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Dear Travel Clinic,
As an ardent fan of music and of Spain, I’d love to take a trip to one of the country’s famous jazz festivals. My wife and I are both in our 60s and would rather stay somewhere near the concerts, preferably within easy walking distance, but in a quiet location without too many crowds. We’d also like to be somewhere affordable that has a bit of choice of other activities. Could you suggest the best festival for us?
Peter Jones, Manchester |
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